Sake Brewing at Shigemasu

Founded in the 2nd year of the Kyōhō era of the Edo period—a 300-year-old brewery

While remaining committed to the good old-fashioned craftsmanship,
Here, we’ll introduce Shigemasu’s efforts to explore sake brewing methods that keep pace with the times.

Carefully Selected Rice

"Yamada Nishiki" and "Yume Ikken" from Fukuoka Prefecture
Made with "Omachi" and "Gin no Sato" rice

Rice suitable for sake brewing is called “sake-brewing rice.” Compared to rice intended for human consumption, it is characterized by larger grains and a larger shinpaku (the white core of the grain), as well as lower protein and ash content.
Among them, “Gin no Sato” is a rice variety cultivated specifically for sake brewing, nurtured by the climate and soil of Yame.
Using rice grown locally is another key commitment that is essential to Shigemasu’s sake brewing.

Carefully Selected Rice
Sake-Grade Rice: "Gin no Sato" from Yame, Polished to 50%
Rice Suitable for Processing 
Gin no Sato, 50% Polished Rice from Yame
Sake-Grade Rice: Yame-Grown "Gin no Sato" Brown Rice
Rice Suitable for Sake Brewing 
Yame-grown Gin no Sato Brown Rice

Water We're Passionate About

We use groundwater from the Yabe River, which contains moderate amounts of potassium, phosphate, and magnesium.

The water used in sake brewing is called "sake brewing water" (mash water).
This water is essential to nearly every step of the sake-making process.
Water used in sake brewing contains components such as potassium, phosphate, and magnesium, which help promote the growth of koji mold and yeast.
If these components are lacking, the growth of koji mold slows down during the koji-making process, and yeast proliferation is delayed in the shubo.
As a result, it becomes difficult to produce sake consistently.
About 80 percent of sake is made up of water.
That is precisely why it goes without saying that water quality is crucial in sake brewing.
Shigemasu Brewery uses groundwater from the Yabe River in its sake-making process.
This water, which has traveled through the earth over a long period of time and contains just the right amount of minerals, powerfully supports the activity of koji mold and yeast, forming the backbone of Shumatsu’s sake.

Water We're Passionate About

Rice Milling

First, we carefully select rice that is suitable for sake brewing—that is, sake-brewing rice.
The carefully selected rice is meticulously milled on-site using a computer-controlled rice mill.
Rice polishing is a process in which rice is gradually polished to remove components from its outer layer that are unnecessary for sake brewing.
The way you polish it can make a big difference in the taste of the sake.
At Shigemasu Brewery, we mill nearly all of our rice in-house to ensure meticulous control over the milling process.
Sake brewing begins with rice polishing, the first step in processing the raw materials.
It should be noted that there aren’t many sake breweries that perform rice polishing on-site.
By managing the rice polishing process ourselves, we gain an accurate understanding of the condition of the raw materials, which we then incorporate into the subsequent sake-brewing process.

Rice Milling

Rinsing Rice

The rice, which has been carefully milled over time using our in-house rice milling machine and whose condition has been carefully monitored, is then passed on to the next step in the process: rice washing.
At Shigemasu Brewery, we have introduced a “Woodson” (rice-washing machine) to gently and carefully wash our highly polished sake rice. This process thoroughly removes the bran from the surface without putting undue stress on the rice.
After washing the rice, it is soaked to allow it to absorb water. The rate at which the rice absorbs water varies greatly depending on the water temperature, the outside temperature, and the condition of the rice on that particular day. If the rice absorbs too much water—or too little—it is impossible to brew good sake.
For this reason, we monitor the condition of the rice and use a stopwatch to manage the soaking time down to the second.

  • After polishing the rice in-house, we load the portioned sake rice into the Woodson (rice washer). The raw material processing that began with polishing now moves on to the next stage.
    After finishing the in-house rice milling process, we load the portioned sake rice into the Woodson (rice washer).
    The raw material processing steps that began with rice polishing will now move on to the next stage.
  • We gently wash the highly polished sake rice. We carefully remove the bran from the surface without putting undue strain on the grains.
    Gently wash the highly polished sake rice.
    Carefully remove the bran from the surface of the rice without putting undue strain on it.
  • This is the soaking process, during which we monitor the condition of the rice—checking for cracks and observing its surface—while allowing it to absorb water. If the rice absorbs too much or too little water, it will not result in good sake. We use a stopwatch to manage the time down to the second.
    This is the soaking process, during which we monitor the condition of the rice—checking for cracks and observing its surface—while allowing it to absorb water. If the rice absorbs too much or too little water, it will not result in good sake. We use a stopwatch to manage the time down to the second.
  • We carefully adjust the soaking time based on the day’s air and water temperatures. Even on the same day, conditions can vary significantly between morning and afternoon. We constantly make calculations to ensure the fabric achieves the desired moisture absorption rate, while keeping these changes in mind.
    We fine-tune the soaking time based on the day's air and water temperatures. Even on the same day, conditions can vary significantly between morning and afternoon.
    While monitoring those changes, we constantly make adjustments to ensure the final product achieves the target water absorption rate.
  • Using the weight of the rice before washing as a baseline, we measure its weight after soaking to determine the water absorption rate. This allows us to assess whether the rice has absorbed water as intended.
    Using the weight of the rice before washing as a baseline, we measure its weight after soaking to determine the water absorption rate.
    We check to see if the moisture is being absorbed as intended.
  • In preparation for steaming the rice tomorrow, we’ll allow the rice to absorb water evenly and let it settle.
    In preparation for steaming the rice tomorrow, we’ll allow the rice to absorb water evenly and let it settle.
Rinsing Rice
  • After polishing the rice in-house, we load the portioned sake rice into the Woodson (rice washer). The raw material processing that began with polishing now moves on to the next stage.
    After finishing the in-house rice milling process, we load the portioned sake rice into the Woodson (rice washer).
    The raw material processing steps that began with rice polishing will now move on to the next stage.
  • We gently wash the highly polished sake rice. We carefully remove the bran from the surface without putting undue strain on the grains.
    Gently wash the highly polished sake rice.
    Carefully remove the bran from the surface of the rice without putting undue strain on it.
  • This is the soaking process, during which we monitor the condition of the rice—checking for cracks and observing its surface—while allowing it to absorb water. If the rice absorbs too much or too little water, it will not result in good sake. We use a stopwatch to manage the time down to the second.
    This is the soaking process, during which we monitor the condition of the rice—checking for cracks and observing its surface—while allowing it to absorb water. If the rice absorbs too much or too little water, it will not result in good sake. We use a stopwatch to manage the time down to the second.
  • We carefully adjust the soaking time based on the day’s air and water temperatures. Even on the same day, conditions can vary significantly between morning and afternoon. We constantly make calculations to ensure the fabric achieves the desired moisture absorption rate, while keeping these changes in mind.
    We fine-tune the soaking time based on the day's air and water temperatures. Even on the same day, conditions can vary significantly between morning and afternoon.
    While monitoring those changes, we constantly make adjustments to ensure the final product achieves the target water absorption rate.
  • Using the weight of the rice before washing as a baseline, we measure its weight after soaking to determine the water absorption rate. This allows us to assess whether the rice has absorbed water as intended.
    Using the weight of the rice before washing as a baseline, we measure its weight after soaking to determine the water absorption rate.
    We check to see if the moisture is being absorbed as intended.
  • Using the weight of the rice before washing as a baseline, we measure its weight after soaking to determine the water absorption rate. This allows us to assess whether the rice has absorbed water as intended.
    In preparation for steaming the rice tomorrow, we’ll allow the rice to absorb water evenly and let it settle.

Steamed Rice

The sake rice, which was washed the day before, is placed in a koshi (steaming basket) and steamed all at once using steam.
The goal of steaming rice is to achieve a state where the outside is firm and the inside is soft. By ensuring the outside of the rice is moderately firm while the inside is plump and soft, the koji mold can slowly penetrate from the surface to the interior, allowing strong koji to develop.
If the steam is too strong or too weak, you won't achieve this ideal state.
While carefully assessing the rice variety, the milling rate, and the day’s temperature and humidity, we adjust the steam application and duration, checking the appearance of each and every grain of rice.
This steamed rice, which has been steamed to perfection to achieve a "crisp exterior and soft interior," forms the foundation of Shigemasu’s sake brewing.

  • Once the sake rice has been washed and soaked, it is transferred to a koshiki (steaming basket). The rice is spread out while leveling the surface to ensure even distribution of steam. This is an important preparatory step to prevent uneven steaming.
    Once the sake rice has been washed and soaked, it is transferred to a koshiki (steaming basket). The rice is spread out while leveling the surface to ensure even distribution of steam.
    This is an important preparatory step to prevent uneven steaming.
  • The steamed sake rice is first offered at the household shrine. We clasp our hands together in gratitude for nature’s bounty and for the process that has brought us this far. This is a precious moment that marks a milestone in the sake-making process.
    The steamed sake rice is first offered at the household shrine.
    With gratitude for nature’s bounty and for the process that has brought us this far, we join our hands in prayer.
    This is a crucial moment in the sake-making process.
  • At Shigemasu, rice is steamed using a rotating steamer.
    At Shigemasu, rice is steamed using a rotating steamer.
  • This equipment supports the balance between quality and workability.
    This equipment supports the balance between quality and workability.
  • Once the sake rice has been steamed, it is cooled to the appropriate temperature using a cooling machine. This is a crucial step in bringing the rice to the ideal temperature for making koji and brewing.
    The steamed sake rice is cooled to the appropriate temperature using a cooling machine.
    This is an important step for adjusting the temperature to the optimal level for making koji and brewing.
  • We proceed to the next step while checking the condition of the rice.
    We proceed to the next step while checking the condition of the rice.
Steamed Rice
  • Once the sake rice has been washed and soaked, it is transferred to a koshiki (steaming basket). The rice is spread out while leveling the surface to ensure even distribution of steam. This is an important preparatory step to prevent uneven steaming.
    Once the sake rice has been washed and soaked, it is transferred to a koshiki (steaming basket). The rice is spread out while leveling the surface to ensure even distribution of steam.
    This is an important preparatory step to prevent uneven steaming.
  • The steamed sake rice is first offered at the household shrine. We clasp our hands together in gratitude for nature’s bounty and for the process that has brought us this far. This is a precious moment that marks a milestone in the sake-making process.
    The steamed sake rice is first offered at the household shrine.
    With gratitude for nature’s bounty and for the process that has brought us this far, we join our hands in prayer.
    This is a crucial moment in the sake-making process.
  • At Shigemasu, rice is steamed using a rotating steamer.
    At Shigemasu, rice is steamed using a rotating steamer.
  • This equipment supports the balance between quality and workability.
    This equipment supports the balance between quality and workability.
  • Once the sake rice has been steamed, it is cooled to the appropriate temperature using a cooling machine. This is a crucial step in bringing the rice to the ideal temperature for making koji and brewing.
    The steamed sake rice is cooled to the appropriate temperature using a cooling machine.
    This is an important step for adjusting the temperature to the optimal level for making koji and brewing.
  • We proceed to the next step while checking the condition of the rice.
    We proceed to the next step while checking the condition of the rice.

Making Koji

Once the steamed rice has finished cooling, it is transported to the koji room.
Koji production is one of the most important processes in determining the flavor of sake.
At Shigemasu, we strive to produce “tsukibashi koji,” in which the koji mold penetrates deep into the very core of the rice.
We sprinkle koji mold while carefully assessing the condition of the rice and meticulously control the temperature and humidity. We observe how the koji changes over time and nurture it through hands-on care.
The koji cultivated in this way forms the core of Shigemasu’s sake brewing process.

  • While carefully assessing the condition of the steamed rice, the brewers perform the “seed cutting” process, which involves sprinkling koji mold over the rice. This is a crucial step—the very first in the koji-making process. The brewers work with the rice as if holding their breath. The atmosphere is tense, almost like a sacred ritual.
    While carefully assessing the condition of the steamed rice, we sprinkle koji mold on it to prepare the starter.
    This is a crucial step that marks the beginning of the koji-making process.
    The brewers approach the rice as if holding their breath. They are enveloped in a tense atmosphere, much like that of a religious ceremony.
  • At Shigemasu, we produce koji using the “lidded koji” method. Even in today’s increasingly mechanized world, we have chosen to preserve this traditional technique. At the same time, we attach QR codes—developed in-house—to each koji lid to facilitate management.
    At Shigemasu, we produce koji using the "futa-koji" method. Even in today's increasingly mechanized world, we have chosen to preserve this traditional technique.
    At the same time, we attach a uniquely developed QR code to each koji lid for tracking purposes.
  • We aim to pass on the art of koji-making to future generations by sharing records of the koji’s condition and our work processes, while cherishing the craftsmanship involved.
    We aim to pass on the art of koji-making to future generations by sharing records of the koji’s condition and our work processes, while cherishing the craftsmanship involved.
  • Over time, the koji changes in appearance. We nurture it through repeated care, checking its temperature, aroma, and texture as we go.
    Over time, the koji changes its appearance.
    We nurture it through careful maintenance, paying close attention to its temperature, scent, and texture.
  • Once the koji has matured sufficiently, it proceeds to the "de-koji" stage. The koji is dried to remove excess moisture, preparing it for the next step. The koji produced through this process forms the core of the sake's flavor.
    Once the koji has matured sufficiently, the process moves on to the "de-koji" stage.
    We dry the koji while removing excess moisture, preparing it for the next step.
    The koji produced in this way forms the core of the sake's flavor.
Making Koji
  • While carefully assessing the condition of the steamed rice, the brewers perform the “seed cutting” process, which involves sprinkling koji mold over the rice. This is a crucial step—the very first in the koji-making process. The brewers work with the rice as if holding their breath. The atmosphere is tense, almost like a sacred ritual.
    While carefully assessing the condition of the steamed rice, we sprinkle koji mold on it to prepare the starter.
    This is a crucial step that marks the beginning of the koji-making process.
    The brewers approach the rice as if holding their breath. They are enveloped in a tense atmosphere, much like that of a religious ceremony.
  • At Shigemasu, we produce koji using the “lidded koji” method. Even in today’s increasingly mechanized world, we have chosen to preserve this traditional technique. At the same time, we attach QR codes—developed in-house—to each koji lid to facilitate management.
    At Shigemasu, we produce koji using the "futa-koji" method. Even in today's increasingly mechanized world, we have chosen to preserve this traditional technique.
    At the same time, we attach a uniquely developed QR code to each koji lid for tracking purposes.
  • We aim to pass on the art of koji-making to future generations by sharing records of the koji’s condition and our work processes, while cherishing the craftsmanship involved.
    We aim to pass on the art of koji-making to future generations by sharing records of the koji’s condition and our work processes, while cherishing the craftsmanship involved.
  • Over time, the koji changes in appearance. We nurture it through repeated care, checking its temperature, aroma, and texture as we go.
    Over time, the koji changes its appearance.
    We nurture it through careful maintenance, paying close attention to its temperature, scent, and texture.
  • Once the koji has matured sufficiently, it proceeds to the "de-koji" stage. The koji is dried to remove excess moisture, preparing it for the next step. The koji produced through this process forms the core of the sake's flavor.
    Once the koji has matured sufficiently, the process moves on to the "de-koji" stage.
    We dry the koji while removing excess moisture, preparing it for the next step.
    The koji produced in this way forms the core of the sake's flavor.

Making the Starter Culture

Sake is made by converting the starch in rice into glucose using koji, and then fermenting it with yeast to produce alcohol.
The process of cultivating that yeast is called "shubo."
Yeast is added to the koji, steamed rice, and brewing water to lay the foundation for healthy fermentation.
The "shubo" is the foundational step in the sake-making process and is also known as "moto."
The quality of this starter culture has a major impact on the flavor of the resulting sake.

  • We let the steamed rice cool to the appropriate temperature for processing.
    We let the steamed rice cool to the appropriate temperature for processing.
  • We add the cooled steamed rice, koji, and brewing water to the tank.
    We add the cooled steamed rice, koji, and brewing water to the tank.
  • Stir the mixture with a paddle to adjust the condition of the starter. This helps the yeast do its job and ensures fermentation proceeds evenly.
    Stir with a paddle to adjust the condition of the starter culture.
    It aids the yeast's activity and helps the fermentation process proceed evenly.
  • We carefully monitor the temperature while assessing the condition of the starter culture.
    We carefully monitor the temperature while assessing the condition of the starter culture.
  • We will create an environment where yeast can thrive.
    We will create an environment where yeast can thrive.
Making the Starter Culture
  • We let the steamed rice cool to the appropriate temperature for processing.
    We let the steamed rice cool to the appropriate temperature for processing.
  • We add the cooled steamed rice, koji, and brewing water to the tank.
    We add the cooled steamed rice, koji, and brewing water to the tank.
  • Stir the mixture with a paddle to adjust the condition of the starter. This helps the yeast do its job and ensures fermentation proceeds evenly.
    Stir with a paddle to adjust the condition of the starter culture.
    It aids the yeast's activity and helps the fermentation process proceed evenly.
  • We carefully monitor the temperature while assessing the condition of the starter culture.
    We carefully monitor the temperature while assessing the condition of the starter culture.
  • We will create an environment where yeast can thrive.
    We will create an environment where yeast can thrive.

Preparation

Koji, steamed rice, and brewing water are added to the cultivated starter culture to prepare the mash (moromi).
This brewing process is carried out in three stages—the first addition, the middle addition, and the final addition—and is known as “three-stage brewing,” a method unique to sake. With each stage of brewing, the volume of the mash increases gradually.
While closely monitoring the progress of fermentation, we regulate the activity of the yeast to ensure a gentle fermentation process.
In this way, the sake matures slowly over time.

  • The action of koji supports the fermentation process.
    The action of koji supports the fermentation process.
  • We use a paddle to mix the contents of the tank until they are uniform. This is an essential step to prevent temperature and fermentation inconsistencies.
    We use a paddle to mix the contents of the tank until they are uniform. This is an essential step to prevent temperature and fermentation inconsistencies.
  • Ice is added to adjust the temperature of the mash and maintain an environment where the yeast can work effectively.
    Ice is added to adjust the temperature of the mash and maintain an environment where the yeast can work effectively.
  • As the brewing process progresses, the size of the tanks increases.
    As the brewing process progresses, the size of the tanks increases.
  • A fragrant aroma rises from the mash.
    A fragrant aroma rises from the mash.
Preparation
  • The action of koji supports the fermentation process.
    The action of koji supports the fermentation process.
  • We use a paddle to mix the contents of the tank until they are uniform. This is an essential step to prevent temperature and fermentation inconsistencies.
    We use a paddle to mix the contents of the tank until they are uniform. This is an essential step to prevent temperature and fermentation inconsistencies.
  • Ice is added to adjust the temperature of the mash and maintain an environment where the yeast can work effectively.
    Ice is added to adjust the temperature of the mash and maintain an environment where the yeast can work effectively.
  • As the brewing process progresses, the size of the tanks increases.
    As the brewing process progresses, the size of the tanks increases.
  • A fragrant aroma rises from the mash.
    A fragrant aroma rises from the mash.

Squeezing

Once the moromi is ready, we check its flavor and condition before proceeding to the pressing stage.
By placing the mixture in a sake bag and pressing it, it is separated into raw sake and sake lees.
After that, while carefully monitoring the condition of the sake, it is filtered and pasteurized, then moved on to storage and aging.
After going through these steps, Shigemasu’s sake is bottled and shipped out.

  • The Process of Pressing "Shizuku" Daiginjo
    The Process of Pressing "Shizuku" Daiginjo
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 2
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-Shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 3
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-Shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 4
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-Shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 5
Squeezing
  • The Process of Pressing "Shizuku" Daiginjo
    The Process of Pressing "Shizuku" Daiginjo
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 2
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-Shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 3
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-Shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 4
  • Scenes from the "Shizuku-Shibori" Daiginjo Squeezing Process, Part 5

Sake Tasting

Tasting sessions are repeated countless times, starting from the moromi stage.
What about the color? What about the aroma? And what about the taste?
The master brewer uses his eyes, nose, and tongue to meticulously check the condition of the sake.

Sake Tasting